По мере роста спроса он начал привлекать исполнителей за Гибралтаром, в Марокко. Рабочей силы там было больше, и она была дешевле, чем в Испании. А фабрики все-таки находились близко, что позволяло легко контролировать качество товара и быстро его доставлять. Результат увеличение доходов.
Сноски
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Цит. в переводе Т. Щепкиной-Куперник. Прим. пер.
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Inditexs Net Sales Rise 9 Percent to 25.34 Billion in Fiscal 2017, Inditex, March 14, 2018, https://www.inditex.com/article?articleId=552792.
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Inditex Annual Report, 2017, 16, https://static.inditex.com/annual_report_2017/assets/pdf/memoria_en.pdf.
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Gabriella Pailla, Is Melanias Infamous Zara Jacket a Ripoff of Another Designer? The Cut, June 22, 2018, https://www.thecut.com/2018/06/melanias-zara-jacket-r13-ripoff.html.
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Chase Peterson-Withorn, The Full List of Every American Billionaire 2016, Forbes, March 1, 2016, https://www.forbes.com/sites/chasewithorn/2016/01/the-full-list-of-every-american-billionaire-2016/.
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The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton, Environmental Justice Foundation, 2007, http://www.cottoncampaign.org/uploads/3/9/4/7/39474145/2007_ejf_deadlychemicalsincotton.pdf.
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Перевод Елены Суриц. Прим. ред.
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В книге упоминаются социальные сети Instagram и/или Facebook, принадлежащие компании Meta Platforms Inc., деятельность которой по реализации соответствующих продуктов на территории Российской Федерации запрещена. Прим. ред.
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Brick by Brick: The State of the Shopping Center, Nielson, May 17, 2013, https://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/reports/2013/brick-by-brick-the-state-of-the-shopping-center.html.
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Alexandra Schwartz, Rent the Runway Wants to Lend You Your Look, The New Yorker, October 22, 2018, https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2018/10/22/rent-the-runway-wants-to-lend-you-your-look.
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Andrew Morgan, The True Cost, documentary (Life Is My Movie Entertainment, 2015).
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John Kerr and John Landry, The Pulse of the Fashion Industry, Boston Consulting Group and Global Fashion Agenda, May 2017, 8.
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Claire Press, Why the Fashion Industry Is Out of Control, Australian Financial Review, April 23, 2016, https://www.afr.com/lifestyle/fashion/why-the-fashion-industry-is-out-of-control-20160419-goa5ic.
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Интервью, данное Дилис Уильямс автору, Лондон, 16 декабря 2016 г.
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Устойчивое развитие (англ. sustainable development) в противоположность экономике, нацеленной на получение прибыли, подразумевает процесс экономических и социальных изменений с акцентом на защиту окружающей среды и гармонизацию общества и личности. Прим. ред.
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Stephanie Vatz, Why America Stopped Making Its Own Clothes, KQED News, May 24, 2013, https://www.kqed.org/lowdown/7939/madeinamerica.
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Schwartz, Rent the Runway.
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Stephanie Clifford, U.S. Textile Plants Return, With Floors Largely Empty of People, The New York Times, September 12, 2013, https://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/20/business/us-textile-factories-return.html.
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Kate Abnett, Does Reshoring Fashion Manufacturing Make Sense? The Business of Fashion, March 9, 2016, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/can-fashion-manufacturing-come-home.
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Global Fashion Statistics International Apparel, Fashion United, 2018.
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Value of the U.S. Apparel Trade Worldwide from 2007 to 2017, Statista, n.d., https://www.statista.com/statistics/242290/value-of-the-us-apparel-trade-worldwide/.
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Ассоциация моды и текстиля Великобритании, в электронном письме, 4 марта 2019 г.
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Steve Denning, Why Are the US Olympic Uniforms Being Made in China? Forbes, July 23, 2012, http://www.forbes.com/sites/stevedenning/2012/07/23/why-are-the-us-olympic-uniforms-being-made-in-china.
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Diana Verde Nieto, What Does Made in America Luxury Really Look Like? Luxury Society, March 20, 2017, https://www.luxurysociety.com/en/articles/2017/what-does-made-america-luxury-really-look/.
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Luisa Kroll and Kerry Dolan, Meet the Members of the Three-Comma Club, Forbes, March 6, 2018, https://www.forbes.com/billionaires/#720a681d251c.
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Morgan, The True Cost.
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Maxine Bédat and Michael Shank, There Is a Major Climate Issue Hiding in Your Closet: Fast Fashion, Fast Company, November 11, 2016, https://www.fastcompany.com/3065532/there-is-a-major-climate-issue-hiding-in-your-closet-fast-fashion.
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SOCAP (Social Capital Markets) ежегодная конференция, посвященная вопросам привлечения капиталов в социальную политику. Прим. ред.
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Julia Jacobo, How Sustainable Brands Are Turning Their Backs on Fast Fashion Trend, ABC News, September 13, 2016, https://abcnews.go.com/US/sustainable-brands-turning-backs-fast-fashion-trend/story?id=39590457.
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Nathalie Remy, Eveline Speelman, and Steven Swartz, Style Thats Sustainable: A New Fast-Fashion Formula, McKinsey & Company, October 2016.
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Kate Abnett, Three Years After Rana Plaza, Has Anything Changed? The Business of Fashion, April 19, 2016, https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/voices/discussions/can-fashion-industry-become-sustainable/-years-on-from-rana-plaza-has-anything-changed-sustainability-safety-worker-welfare.
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Marianna Kerppola et al., H&Ms Global Supply Chain Management Sustainability: Factories and Fast Fashion, University of Michigan, February 8, 2014.
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The Impact of a Cotton T-Shirt, World Wildlife Fund, January 16, 2013, https://www.worldwildlife.org/stories/the-impact-of-a-cotton-t-shirt.
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Echo Huang, The Once Pristine Waters of Antarctica Now Contain Plastic Fibers, Quartz, June 7, 2018, https://qz.com/1299485/antarcticas-waters-now-contain-plastic-fibers/.
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Alexandra Schwartz, Rent the Runway.
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Alden Wicker, Fast Fashion Is Creating an Environmental Crisis, Newsweek, September 1, 2016, https://www.newsweek.com/2016/09/09/old-clothes-fashion-waste-crisis-494824.html.
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Kerr and Landry, Pulse of the Fashion Industry, 12.
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Overview of the Used Clothing Market in East Africa, United States Agency for International Development, July 2017.
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Global Business of Secondhand Clothes Thrive in Africa, Africa News, April 26, 2018, http://www.africanews.com/2018/04/26/global-business-of-secondhand-clothes-thrive-in-africa-business-africa//.
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Abdi Latif Dahir and Yomi Kazeem, Trumps Trade War Includes Punishing Africans for Refusing Second-hand American Clothes, Quartz Africa, April 5, 2018, https://qz.com/africa/1245015/trump-trade-war-us-suspends-rwanda-agoa-eligibility-over-secondhand-clothes-ban/.
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Textiles: Material-Specific Data, epa.gov. n.d.
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Press, Why the Fashion Industry Is Out of Control.
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Anat Keinan and Sandrine Crener, Stella McCartney, Harvard Business School, November 22, 2016.
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Jessica Dickler, Black Friday Weekend: Record $52.4 Billion Spent, CNN Money, November 27, 2011, https://money.cnn.com/2011/27/pf/black_friday/index.htm.
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Вирджил Абло скончался в 2021 г. Прим. ред.
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Интервью, данное Рафаэллой Мандриотой автору, Вильпент, 13 февраля 2018 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Мандриоты происходят из этого интервью.
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Интервью, данное Мэри Катранзу автору, Лондон, 7 февраля 2018 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Катранзу происходят из этого интервью, телефонных звонков или электронных писем, если не указано иное.
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Hanna Rose Iverson, Started From the Bottom: Mary Katrantzou to Hannah Griffiths, Brighton Fashion Week, n.d., http://www.brightonfashionweek.com/blog/started-mary-k.
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Samantha Conti, Wendy Yu Invests in Mary Katrantzou, Eyes Growth in China, Womens Wear Daily, January 22, 2018.
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Nancy Chilton, Wendy Yu Endows Lead Curatorial Position at the Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, March 7, 2018.